Saturday, Turkey Perch: After a sunny start, it clouded up and became quite chilly. Still, we had a social, dog-infested time at Turkey's most popular crag.
Sunday, Leftovers - After snow in the night, the sun came out fiercely and melted things in earnest. The south-facing rock was pretty warm and dry.
In any case, Amy and I climbed 8 pitches up to the base of the final summit when a convenient walk-off and loss of light forced us to give up the climb. The first pitch is definitely the crux with an entertaining traverse under a small roof. A full 50 meters takes you to a convenient cedar tree belay. Amy lead P2 up to a broad nook with a massive tree. I took the ridgy P3 up to a series of cracks another full 50 meters above and to the north and Amy finished P4 (another traverse) to the base of the Like Heaven pinnacle. Pitches 5 and 6 were much more interesting leading up the steep (for a Flatiron) face of Like Heaven and Amy performed some rather bold moves through a gear-less section near the top. The view from the notch between Like Heaven and the continuing ridge was spectacular in the setting sun. I took P7 and 8 across a saw-tooth traverse to a large tree below the final summit block. From there we walked off the horrendous gully and fought through the blowdowns back to the Mesa Trail.
Banana Peel (5.8 TR) -- Pumpy, bulgy route up the free-standing banana pillar at the Grocery Store. Lots of holds, but few of them ideal. Entertaining hole all the way through the pillar near the top. Lots of crimps on conglomerate pebbles. Easier the second time up. Three bolts at top of pillar. Watch that precipitous step-across, though.
Teething Bisquit (5.10a TR) -- (didn't complete). Nice climb up an open book with narrow finger crack and a couple big pockets. Then there is an exciting roof problem with the only available holds being a shallow, sharp horizontal crack. Didn't make it past the roof.
Discrepancy (5.8-* TR) -- Honestly, this has got to be one of the finest climbs at Seneca! It's a lovely bit of crack and face-climbing, sustained, consistent in difficulty, and varied in terrain. Attention-getting, but not too hard, even at the end of the day. For this climb alone it is worth hiking to the Lower Slabs. Warlock (5.9*) just to the left is also a great climb but really hard.
Plantain (5.7ish TR) -- Short flake and face climb to the left (north) of Discrepancy and Warlock on the Lower Slabs. It's not in the book, but is a perfectly viable climb. We named it Plantain because of it's similarity in style to Banana (5.6) on the west face. The moves are similar moving up a left-facing flake and then some very thin face moves to the jug at the top. Unlike that famous climb, however, the flake is not quite 'ripe' yet and is still firmly attached.
Old Man's Route (5.2*, 4-pitch trad lead) -- Amy and I ostensibly met on this climb back in the spring of '99. It's not too hard although there are definitely some moves harder than the rating. Takes good pro everywhere and has good belay stances. First two pitches are straight-forward with occasional steep bits. Third pitch is a traverse on a 3rd-class ledge with trees for pro. Fourth pitch heads up the steep, north-facing corner under the Traffic Jam rap station. Amy lead all four pitches (her fourth through seventh pitches lead, respectively) and did some pretty impressive moves on the steeper parts, especially the fourth pitch. For her trouble, I proposed to her on the south summit and presented the ring I had been (very nervously) carrying around in my pocket. Best trip ever!
Calypso III (5.2, TR, 60') -- "5.2, my ass!" A healthy 5.4 at least, perhaps higher. Flaring hand-jam crack up corner with small face moves. TR from some manky shuts or higher from a 5" tree. Back up in either case with large cam. Fun climb, not too challenging on TR. Photos and descriptions: 1